Wendy (wendylady2) wrote,
Wendy
wendylady2

NYFW 1 : Badgley Mischka - Farah Angsana

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK - PART 1
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011




BADGLEY MISHKA - FARAH ANGSANA

Well, of course, with all the red carpet excitement of the BAFTAs and the Grammys this week, it is very easy to forget that all the fashion designers we admire so much have been gearing up for their latest runway shows, and New York Fashion Week has been quietly in progress all this week !! From Friday 18th all the attention will switch over the pond to London, followed swiftly by Milan and then Paris !!

So let's go and have a look at some of the beautiful dresses that they've got in store for the red carpets and parties for the coming year... 




BADGLEY MISCHKA

We'll start with a design duo who have been enjoying a lot of success on the red carpet lately - there was a very definite feeling of Hollywood luxury about the whole Badgley Mischka collection, and the reason may well be because their thoughts are on their new Rodeo Drive flagship store, which has opened just in time for the Oscars...

Mark Badgley and James Mischka delved right back into the 1930s/40s era of classic Hollywood glamour to produce a marvellous selection of slinky draped dresses inspired by that master of Hollywood design himself, Adrian and all the iconic films he designed for like 'Camille', 'The Women' and 'Marie Antoinette'...think of Greta Garbo, Katherine Hepburn, Bette Davis, and Joan Crawford and you'll know what I mean !! 

 
   
 

This inky midnight-blue gown, below, is particularly beautiful - I like the long sheer sleeves split down the outer arm and gathered into an embroidered cuff...gorgeous and probably most likely to turn up on a red carpet soon !! I also love the lariat necklace - very different and very individual in its own way...

 

This is their take on the evening trousers trend that I have been talking about - I don't know whether this is separates or a jumpsuit, but I love the sheer cape effect that goes all the way round the back and I absolutely adore the unusual necklace - a fabulous piece of jewellery !!

 

Rich colours were kept just to two shades - teal blue and magenta, both being combined with black in varying degrees...

 

 

This gown below really caught my eye - I love the amazing double black and magenta bow pinned right in the centre with a jewel - this is so much an Oscars gown...

 

 

I liked the Style.com reviewer who quipped:-

"...In truth, these may not be the dresses that get live-tweeted to death on Oscar night, but aside from the final gown, which suffered from an overly heavy panel of ruffles, they're solidly Joan Rivers-proof."

Actually, I rather liked the final white on with all the ruffles - here it is, so that you can make your own minds up on that point !!




BETSEY JOHNSON 'BLACK LABEL'

Normally I don't feature Betsey Johnson's work, as she is one of the slightly more unhinged of the crazy designers on the New York fashion scene - her designs are rarely worn on the red carpet, but all that could well change this year...
This season she has come up with not one but two amazing collections that are both absolutely gorgeous in very different ways - wearable, colourful and very definitely in the case of her new 'Pink Patch' label' brand anyway, music awards show red carpet material...

Firstly her usual Black label collection is now a bit more expensive, as a direct result of the new 'Pink Patch' label launch - this has allowed her to be a bit more upmarket in her fabric choices, and she has really gone for the Bohemian side of her personality...she named this collection 'He Loves Me / He Loves Me Not', and indulged fully in beautiful rich colours, reds, pinks, and purples...luxurious velvets with ruffles and appliquéd roses, early 70s style floral prints etc, etc...

 



 

 

BETSEY JOHNSON 'PINK PATCH' LABEL

Her brand new 'Pink Patch' label is a much lower priced collection, with no item being more than $100 - it's also a much more energetic collection featuring loads of fun and colourful items, all inspired by th late 70s/early 80s Punk/New Romantic style...

I am 52 now, but I remember wearing stuff like this in London in the early part of the 80s - low-slung black leather studded belts, snakeskin print t-shirt dresses, little satin dresses with the ra-ra skirt and corset-style bodices, shocking pink leopard-skin print leggings, and ultra-wide, cropped t-shirts  - the skull and crossbones motif came later with Alexander McQueen's famous recurring print, but the entire show was so very Rock and Roll...I loved it to bits !!

Here's a good selection to give you a taste of where she was coming from - and an interesting side-note which a lot of you will love and applaud...all the models are ordinary girls from a retail store, and so they come in all shapes and sizes - a very refreshing change from the endless parade of tall skinny model-types at New York fashion week...they all look similar because they are all wearing Betsey Johnson bleached hair wigs !!
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

I am so looking forward to seeing some of these on the music awards shows red carpets over the course of the next year - wait until next year's Grammy Awards Show...

CARLOS MIELE

Carlos Miele is very definitely an evening wear specialist, with amazing embellishments as his forté...this season, he has tried to widen his customer base to include a slightly younger clientèle, and he succeeded I think, with a few significant new and fresh ideas - the first two designs here are fairly new to him, and are picking up on what will be a recurring theme this year ...

What Raf Simons, designing for the Jil Sander label, started last season with his highly acclaimed, mystifyingly popular, and frankly hideous blanket skirts, teamed with distinctively unglamorous plain t-shirts, has now developed into something of a major trend...here are two of his designs from that collection as a reminder !!

 

This full length, full-waisted skirt hobbled in at the ankles, and teamed with a plain fitted top with a crew neckline and short or long sleeves, has been picked up by various designers and given varying treatments as you will see during the next four weeks - this is shaping up to be a popular design trend, but different designers have given it different interpretations as you will see – some better than others !!

These first two by Carlos Miele are most definitely in the same style, but are - oh - so much better !! They are still very full-waisted, and are still separates rather than a dress - the two main ideas proposed by Raf Simons - but just the choice of beautiful luxury fabrics do it for me...and the fact that the bodices are barer, and more evening-like, and the skirts have belts rather than just plain gathering in like a sack !! All these details make all the difference...

 

The next one also is along the same lines with a long-sleeved wide crew-necked stripey t-shirt teamed with a long plain red skirt with a very wide waistband...you see, the basic shapes are very similar to what Raf Simons was doing at Jil Sander, but the effect is so much more attractive...here, we see a new trend being developed into something you would actually wear, before your very eyes !!

   

The second design above is a very attractive red print wrap-over dress that I could easily see being worn in Cannes at a press call or similar !!

The next two I have chosen are picking up on another major emerging trend - plain but drapey jumpsuits in silk jersey, worn here with separate snoods which lend the jumpsuits a very late 70s Studio 54 vibe - I recall Grace Jones in something very similar back then...gorgeous and very wearable, and very suited to the red carpet trend for dressy evening trousers - don't you think ?!!

 


For the rest of his collection, he stuck to what he usually does best of all - extremely classy full length evening dresses with imaginative detailing...the first two feature a fine digital print on chiffon, inspired, he said by aerial satellite shots...

 

Then he explored the amazing detail of fine Celtic knot designs, experimenting both in complex pleating on velvet, and appliquéd piping cord in contrasting colours, often to fantastic effect...

 

I love these two above - and I wonder if the options will be for other colours too - I would pay good money to see someone wearing the full length dress on the right in the same amazing rich shade of green as the dress below - how wonderful that would be !!

He also did a nice line in embellished shoulder detail - this is the new incarnation of the 80s trend for big shoulders - thank goodness we didn't get too many giant shoulder-pads this time around !!
 


My favourites from this collection though were these two amazing olive green and royal blue dresses -who would have thought that these two colours would look so good together ?!!

 

He explored the Celtic knot theme further in the most extreme contrast of black and white, giving us a very striking couple of designs indeed - watch out for any of these at the Oscars the weekend after next !!

 

CAROLINA HERRERA

Carolina Herrera produced many evening dresses for next Autumn, as she usually does, and I would love to see more stars wear her designs on the red carpet because she always has something fresh to give us in terms of texture, and surface embellishment...her dresses are always interesting !!
It has to be said though, that her main clientèle live in and around New York and shop in Fifth Avenue, rather than Rodeo Drive, but still, there are a few stars who have worn her dresses before and have always got into my Best Dressed lists as a result...

Here are the best of her dresses from this collection..the first one was done in a beautiful shimmery fabric and featured an interesting pleat detail in the back train...

 

The second of my choices picked up on the long sleeves trend but was still an off-the-shoulder design...pleated all the way down the length of the sleeve, this wouldn't have worked in anything heavier than the chiffon here...

 

More triple pleating detail - this time around the plunging neckline - fabulous !! I love this, and would really like to see someone like Nicole Kidman wearing this...

 

This dress featured a matching wrap draped across the shoulders - so very 50s, and so very graceful...

 

Here's an interesting take on the separates trend for evening - a pleated and beaded top worn with a full length skirt in contrasting turquoise...

 

Both the next two dresses feature heavily beaded sections, and the second one has an interesting brush-strokes print too...

 

 

More brush-strokes, this time forming bird's feathers in plum on a duck-egg background - an interesting combination of shades...

 



A similar colour combination, this time in plain top and contrasting skirt...

 

This final choice was absolutely gorgeous, wafting down the runway like an enormous chiffon negligée - cut like a trench coat, this wrap-around dress is sure to be a winner !!

 

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

Another designer to pick up on the rather prim and proper trend started by Raf Simons at Jil Sander, was Christian Siriano, with a somewhat pared down selection of evening dresses – the whole collection was very much quieter than his usual glamorous over-the-top style, and the main reason for this ?...
He enlisted the help of Hollywood star stylist Danielle Nachmani, who styles Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen and Maggie Gyllenhaal amongst others, to try and make his collection much more appealing to the Hollywood A-list that make up his desired clientèle...in that respect, I think he is on the right track – although I like his style, it doesn’t necessarily appeal to everyone, and giving his collection a broader appeal can’t do him any harm. His evening wear dresses were much less billowing and a tad more tasteful in their colour palette too...

I liked this dark green colour he chose for these three cocktail dresses, and the dark green floral print for the full length dress below too...

 

 

The draped frontal cape was strangely dramatic but restrained, at the same time - I think it was because the colours were rich but quiet, compared to his usual fiery oranges and reds...the full length lilac version of the frontal cape design was lovely and elegant...and I really liked the second and third dresses in the same colour too...

 




Here is Christian Siriano's version of the Raf Simons full evening skirt gathered in at the waist -  he produced a tulip-shaped version worn with a plain black long-sleeved polo-neck, which was a lovely idea actually !!

 

Here's his take on the evening trousers look - a really heavily ruffled top with sharply tailored narrow trousers in black satin...fab !!



FARAH ANGSANA

It's very rare to see one of Farah Angsana's designs on the red carpet, but that doesn't stop me from featuring her dresses in here - one day, a big star will suddenly pick up on the fact that her dresses are actually really lovely and perfect red carpet material...

For next Autumn, she produced a collection very heavy on embellishment and including a certain amount of ultra-short dresses that were also very low-cut - these I feel were a tad too risqué to recommend wearing on the red carpet in front of the entire world's press cameras, and so I have concentrated mainly on the cocktail dresses which were ultra-short - yes, but with high necklines and long sleeves, and the full length designs which were amazingly lovely !!

Take these two - this rusty brown colour isn't a colour we see very often but it actually is incredibly easy to wear and suits the vast majority of people's complexions...and I love it combined with a gold mesh border like this...

 

The rest of her colour palette was restrained but rich, all deep subtle shades - dark magenta, rich turquoise, black and this inky purpley-blue...

 

 

 

 

 


This marks the end of New York RTW Fashion Week - Part 1...there will be three parts to this coverage, simply because there were so many amazingly beautiful collections this time around...it seems that most of the red carpet designers have definitely regained their confidence in the face of recent financial uncertainty, and have really gone all out to win star customers and get their designs seen out there !!

Part 2 will cover J Mendel to Naeem Khan - and Part 3 will cover Oscar de la Renta to a new designer called Zang Toi, who has produced a really interesting collection, full of red carpet possibles and is being picked up already !!

Part 2 will be up by Sunday evening....


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