Fashion Police Files
Autumn/Winter 2006... 
Sun, 6th Aug 2006
dance detail

AUTUMN / WINTER  2006...
( THE 80s REVISITED !!! )



Alexander McQueen rather likes the Austrian blinds look from the eighties...

and so do rather a lot of the other designers this Autumn !!

Yes, I have, indeed, gone to see what the shops are likely to be giving us this Autumn, and, yes, indeed, the truly bad news is that the eighties are upon us once again !!

However, take heart, all of you lovely ladies who remember the 80s the first time around, ( and not with much affection either )...for you see, it's really not all bad !!
There is much to love about the next Seasons' trends, and this is mostly due to the fact that there is a healthy dose of 1940s mixed in...

For your delectation, I have divided this piece into two sections, for easy reference...
So firstly, here are the ..

TRENDS TO LOVE

1) COLOURS:-
According to fashion website ASOS.com, the predominant colours this Autumn are really rather lovely, and the loveliest of all these is going to be 

PURPLE

Look:-


Other starring colours will be Teal blue, Lime green, and lots of lovely red !!!

Neutrals will be black ( there's a surprise !! ) all shades of grey, and Winter white ( this is a very flattering creamy shade of white, which almost everyone can wear ) No brown ( Boo !! ) and not much navy, thank goodness !!
As for the metallics, they are a story in themselves...

2) NATTY 40s TAILORING

There were a lot of really beautiful suits at the Collections for this Autumn...very 1940s in their shapes, with nipped-in waists and peplums on the jackets...
 
Armani does what he does best ...FAB tailoring and good shapes !!

For all of you who really dislike the new shapes for Autumn, ( and you will find out what I mean in a mo', ) this skirt shape is actually the most flattering variation on the theme, even though it does resemble one of my pet hates, the Balloon skirt...Called the Tulip skirt, because of its resemblance to an upside down tulip, it is usually gathered or pleated into a waist band, and providing the wearer isn't too skinny, is very pretty...
For fuller and curvier figures, ( over a size UK 14 )it is the best choice for this season...go on try it on somewhere, you may be pleasantly surprised !!! ...and if you are a classic hourglass shape, whatever your size, you will have struck the jackpot !!! Clinch it with a big belt, around your waist instead of slung loosely around your hips, and see what I mean !!

3) EMPIRE-LINE DRESSES

This trend has been coming in for the last four or five months, and is very good for short and curvier than average women...it needs at least a size 34B bust to carry it off well, and has the effect of lengthening the legs by raising the waistline up to under the bust...
Beware of wearing this shape, however, if you are very fat or very thin...on the one hand you will look like very top heavy, ( probably not what you'd want !! ) and on the other you will look like an underfed skeleton...you need to be around a UK size 10 - 16 to wear this successfully, I reckon !! 


Christian Lacroix does Jane Austen...with mutton-chop sleeves !!


Christian Lacroix does the Empire line dress combined with a tulip shaped overlay...very pretty indeed !! All in very rich toffee shade...yum !!!

The other variation on this shape is the Empire-tent dress:-



This is truly a dress to make an entrance in...

Purple crushed silk...and an Empire line...and a very full skirt..Elie Saab manages to incorporate three trends into one fabulous dress !!! 

4) METALLICS

The metallic fabrics are going to be very popular in evening wear this season...especially gold, gold, and more gold...

Giambattista Valli does gold bling in a big way !!...


Elie Saab does silver...

You will notice, of course, that whatever else may happen, thankfully, the beautiful fishtail shape that we all love is still here...for evening wear anyway !!


Armani does pearly-white metallic organza...


5) HALTER-NECKS
 
Halternecks are very good for emphasising a tiny bust, especially in a sweetheart neckline shape, a la 1940s...and are flattering for a large bust too, if it is the plunging V-front variety...hence the reason why I love them !!
But...if you are going to wear them, for goodness sake get yourself a really good halterneck bra...there is nothing worse than straps that show !! The one I have is by M & S, and has removeable, and interchangeable, straps - ones that you can switch for a see-through one if the dress straps are tiny...

Gorgeous colour and nice bow detail...both important details this Autumn ...

This beautiful top is by ASOS.com and costs £18...bargain !! 

6) ACCESSORIES

The bags this season are just lovely...all small, compact and beautiful colours and lots of bows, and gold chain straps

Accessorize does lime green velvet so well...£18


Another from Accessorize, this time £12...gorgeous !!



Shoes are rich in colour and either 1940s wedges with ankle straps...( bad for anyone with short legs )


Or are real 1980s F***-me shoes...at least four inches of spikey heel and a rich colour to die for...from Office for £54.99

If you can't countenence the thought of climbing into either of these beauties, then get yourself some of the other big trend in footwear next season...the flat pump with bow detail...

These are also incorporating another big trend for Autumn...that of the animal print...
Also available in black, these are from Isaac Mizrahi's range for Target ( in the States ) for $30..

If you like a small heel, but really don't like the idea of ankle straps reining you in, either because they cut your legs in half and make you look like a midget, or you just don't like the feel of them, then consider these :-


Patent leather Mary-jane shoes, with the strap across the instep, are only $17.99 from Payless.com...beware they are made of man-made material, and not leather...but the style is perfect for those of us who can't, or won't, wear ankle-straps !! 

Well, all these are the trends that I reckon are ones to look forward to, but there is also plenty coming next season to complain about...the eighties are very definitely revisited where knitwear is concerned for instance...
Here, then, are the...

TRENDS TO HATE

1) LEGGINGS

No, no, no...I hear you cry...

Oh but yes indeedy...

Not only are these leggings, but these are also Lurex leggings !!! Kill me now...


Leopard-print leggings will really flatter your legs...to death probably !!

Don't even think about this trend if you are anything over a size 12...just forget you ever saw these pictures...OK ?!!

2) TARTAN


The tartan hordes are here again !! Luella Bartley really, really liked it...


as did Alexander McQueen...mad fool !!

Heaven preserve us from this awful stuff...at least I can hope that there will be a lot of purple heathery versions of proper plaid to offset the truly dire Stewart tartan used here...

3) THE PUFFBALL AND BALLON SKIRTS

Everyone who reads this journal on a regular basis will know very well how much I hate this shape, and this season, for my sins, I will be confronted with these horrid skirts everywhere I go...Oh woe is me !!


Jean-Paul Gaultier does the puffball...Boo hiss !!!

The difference between a puffball skirt and a balloon skirt, should you be curious, is this...a puffball is gathered onto a shorter lining, thus curling the hem of the skirt up and under in a full kind of way...works much  better when it is in a soft gauzy fabric...and a balloon skirt is gathered onto a straight, and very visible, band around the knee area, or a flouncy frill, like this :-



...and frankly looks like you have been tied up, when you weren't being over-attentive...

Bubble skirts should just remain a hidden mystery...

A Tulip skirt, on the other hand, is featured at the top of this page, and looks a lot more sexy than either of these other two...


4)THE TRAPEZE COAT & THE COCOON COAT

This is a really unflattering shape that has been hi-jacked from the early 60s Balenciaga collections...and every so often it crops up again,...
and every so often I do hope that it will go away soon...
For those who are unfamiliar with the term 'Trapeze coat', let me enlighten you...

Also called a Swagger coat or a Smock coat, it falls from the shoulders in a very full triangular shape and goes all the way down to the knees and then stops....abruptly !! Usually it is accompanied by a matching scarf instead of any sort of a collar...
Sometimes it stops at the waist, and then it becomes a Trapeze jacket...

The Cocoon Coat is, on the other hand, a fairly new innovation, also from the House of Balenciaga, and looks like this :-

Ignoring, for a moment, the riding hat, this is a typical classic Balenciaga shape...this shape has cropped up in a few other collections too, this Autumn:-

Alberta Ferretti does the cape shape..

 and will no doubt be adapted by Top Shop, New Look, and Zara, ad nauseum this Winter !!


The Balenciaga coat is also available in the dress version...


5) OVERSIZE KNITWEAR

Yes, it's that typical 80s look...what we used to call the 'inverted triangle'...huge on the top half, balanced by a very slim bottom half...an oversize sloppy sweater, perhaps even teamed with the dreaded leggings...

Stella McCartney has done this in a big way this Autumn...


Stella again...Huge Sweater-dress teamed with Trapeze coat, teamed with dark opaque tights and ankle boots....hmmm...where have I seen this look before ?!!!

No 'Autumn Collections 2006 Fashion Report'  would be complete without some madness included within it...and where else to go for an insanity injection then the House of Dior, where Galliano reigns supreme...

John has taken the idea of a balloon skirt and run with it...


John took his holidays in Venice this year...and fell for the Carnival thing..


Dress is lovely...shame about that accident the model had on the way here...never mind, John did all he could in the circumstances, considering the lack of time available...!!


The other injection of insanity comes from Gareth Pugh, of course, without whom we may take it all far too seriously...

Hard to tell whether this is a Man or Woman, but who cares...I love it !!


I hope you are all getting your pointy hats out of their boxes for that Christmas party...

_________________________________________________________________________________________

So you see, this Autumn isn't really all bad news is it...I mean, yes we have the puffball skirt to deal with, and the inverted triangle with the knitwear going on, but the rest is really quite wearable for a change !!

I'd say that, for the first twenty years anyway, if you can remember it the first time around, then you shouldn't be wearing it the second time around...the words 'mutton' and 'lamb' spring to mind...
After about thirty years, you can probably get away with it, on the grounds that you can recycle the originals and get the kudos that way !!

Later on, this Autumn, around September, I will be posting my choices for the best buys that are actually in the shops...and I will be biased heavily in favour of the ( slightly ) older woman !!...


Enjoy this Autumn...












 

 

Comments 
Tue, 8th Aug 2006 (UTC)
Oh but I just LOVED my bubble perm...didn't you?!!
I am glad to see that the Southern Hemisphere is going mad just like the rest of us...