Fashion Police Files
Spring 2013 CFW : G. Valli 
Wed, 6th Feb 2013
Firebird purple
SPRING 2013 COUTURE



GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Giambattista Valli is one of the newest additions to the Paris elite -  the roster of designer names that can officially call themselves Haute Couture Designers, and he has probably the youngest clientèle of the lot, so his collection is going to be a lot more adventurous than some, and more subject to the vagaries of fashion trends than perhaps, say, Elie Saab or the design team for Valentino...



This collection had some rather good designs that were twists on the classic idea of a red carpet dress - using the slimmest of trousers in conjunction with big skirted trains, he has invented a new look for the red carpet which is more youthful and more fun than your usual evening ball-gown, but without losing any of the gravitas needed to pull it off on the Oscars red carpet, say...
He also took a lot of inspiration from the typical wide-skirted Prom dress shape of the 1950s - Dior's New Look is very visible in this little lot, with sheer layers of chiffon gathered to create lightweight width and volume over a straight pencil-slim skirt underneath !!

Dress no 4 here is the ill-fated dress that Anne Hathaway wore to the Golden Globes, where she ended up in my Worst Dressed list, being as the dress just wasn't looking as good as the original here...

 

 





I found myself loving this creation below, in black mesh - the rise and fall gown will be with us for a while yet, but who cares if it looks as good as this...I love the graduated length of the skirt as it goes round the back...and I love the idea of the same mesh texture used in matching leggings - what genius for the Winter months... 

 

I also rather liked this dress below, which was surprising as I could well imagine this ending up in my sin-bin for the Worst Dressed stars, if it's not carefully handled !!

 

Monochrome leopard spots and other animal-like prints were a big feature of this collection - and brought out some of the first 'slim-trousers-under-a-big-train' idea - here are four of the best:-

 

 

 

Yellow featured, albeit briefly, but I liked what I saw, even though I'm not  big fan of yellow, as you all know !! Beautiful floral textures with 3-dimensional petals attached all over the skirts...

 



 

Almost all the dresses appeared to have a degree of padding round the hips - there simply aren't any models with hips as wide as these...and it's not a great look if your legs are skinny too !!

 

Beautiful swathed layers of tulle, ending at the ankles - all very 50s !! 

 

Back to the floral textures here, with a particularly lovely white dog-rose design under the top sheer layer... I couldn't help wishing that the models had done something with their hair though, other than wash it and let it hang naturally - these dresses are made-to-measure and therefore cost an arm and a leg to order, after all !! Their make-up is a bit too au naturelle too if you know what I mean...

 

Here's a slightly shorter, white version of the yellow dress covered in petals - and just look at that amazing necklace !! What a great piece for a wedding perhaps...

 

Here's a pink-tinged one too...



The other design theme he went with was beautiful satin-stitch embroidery - long trailing lines of flowers and leaves, all embroidered in the same colour as the fabric, made for a subtle and elegant design. This coat-dress is not for anyone over a size six though - take a look at the width of this round the back...

 

 

This one appeared to be a beautiful gown that reminded me a little of Valentino, until I got wind of the trousers !! Very subtle because I didn't notice them at first...what a lovely idea though !!

 

Here's a trousers / long-skirted outfit that I really want to see someone wear at the Oscars - Cate Blanchett or Tilda Swinton are two ladies that immediately spring to mind !! I'm liking the big-skirted beauty on the right too...

 

Here's the Valli take on the wedding dress finale - and I love both the brass and copper necklace and waist-band, but perhaps not at the same time !!

 


WHAT I DIDN'T LIKE :-

Here's the stuff I had definite reservations about - and I do wonder if these will inevitably be the ones that turn up on the red carpet - that has happened several times now, much to my disappointment...

Aargh - far too much black net around the models hips in the first, resulting in a very odd design that doesn't benefit from it at all - I'd really rather it wasn't there, as this would be a fabulous cocktail dress without it !!
There isn't quite enough elegance or finesse about the bodice in the second - looks like a t-shirt on top of a fancy rise and fall skirt...

 

There's definitely such a thing as too much texture - this dress is already padded around the hips and thigh area - we really didn't need quite so many flowers there too - this dress makes you look w-i-d-e !!

 

And of course, if you actually want to look like a shaggy pom-pom, and don't mind paying thousands of pounds for the privilege, than Giambattista Valli is yer man...

 

I just thought these two were dull, along with the weird padding underneath...

 

So there you go then - Giambattista Valli's new Couture Collection has some lovely design ideas within, but with some duff ones too...

Next up will be Valentino and then another Lebanese-born designer from the US - Zuhair Murad !! 

Comments 
Wed, 6th Feb 2013 (UTC)
soooo pretttyyy!
Fri, 8th Feb 2013 (UTC)
Yes - I thought so too !! Wait until you see what the other two remaining designers have in store though...
Thu, 7th Feb 2013 (UTC)
I like their shoes.
Fri, 8th Feb 2013 (UTC)
Yes, they are attractive, aren't they ?!! The square interlocking design at the front is pretty...and it is good to see flat-soled medium-height shoes on the runway after so many years !!
Thu, 7th Feb 2013 (UTC)
Some pretty designs and I definitely like the trousers-with-train ones, but I don't like the padded hips. And I agree with your what-you-didn't-like choices.

Thanks as always, I enjoy looking :-)
Fri, 8th Feb 2013 (UTC)
The padded hips thing is quite scary actually, and I don't know many people who would want to look fatter in any area because of the dress they're wearing. Even if you are rake-thin like these models, you're arms and legs will look out of balance with the rest of you...
Fri, 8th Feb 2013 (UTC)
Exactly... not a good look :-/