Fashion Police Files
Spring 2013 CFW : Christian Dior 
Sun, 27th Jan 2013
Firebird purple
SPRING 2013 COUTURE



CHRISTIAN DIOR
This is Raf Simons second couture collection for the House of Dior, and it was a lot more interesting and adventurous than his first - there were quite a few things I loved here - and a few things I really didn't, it has to be said !!

See what you think...



During his summer vacation in his native Puglia, sitting in his parents beautiful garden, Raf Simons read the autobiography of Christian Dior, which has helped him enormously to understand the original conceptual vision of the house - this showed today with the beautiful constructions he created, and exquisite embellishments that he set for his Atelier to conjure up out of nowhere...and much like Dior himself, he drew inspiration from the garden he enjoyed sitting in...

His primary vision was of the coming season - Spring was invoked in all its glory, from the pastel blues and silver-greys of the sky to the infinite possibilities of the floral world - beautiful little flowers all hand-embroidered, were scattered delicately across sheer puffball dresses and down the length of evening gowns in meandering rivers.

He started out with a selection of dresses in various shades of blue and grey, evoking a Spring sky, with tucks and flared pleats -  origami-like folds of fabric rolling into a knot at the waist and then flowing down to the ankle...

 

 

 

Here are two dresses in the classic Dior silhouette of a flared short skirt over a longer pencil skirt, one in plain black and the other in a
blossom-scattered net over a solid black base...

 

Here's one of my own personal favourites from this collection - I just loved the diagonal stripes splaying out from the bust-line - such an elegant design, and he had the courage to simply let it run down to the ankle-level hem !! I so want this to appear somewhere on a red carpet...

 

Here's a little cocktail dress along similar lines...

 

There were layers of hand-crafted petals made of lime-green silk teamed with plain black, and hand-made pansies appliquéd in large swathes round the mid-section of a dress...

 


 

Here's an interesting dress - the right hand design, of which we can see the rear view in the left hand photo, is intriguing - I love the little section of flowers going round the waist and disappearing under the draped silk neckline...

The left-hand design is also an elegant little cocktail dress !!

 

I don't particularly like dresses that have two halves like this, but this isn't so bad - at least the front half relates to the back half in that it has the same flowers - it looks like closed buds in the front with open blossoms in the back...maybe the back gets more sun !! 

 

Here's another dress that intrigued me greatly - again, it's the right hand dress, of which we can see the amazing rear view in the first photo...isn't this a red carpet dead cert ?!! This is the dress with the meandering river of blossoms I mentioned further up !!

The left hand dress is also beautiful actually - the skirt looks a bit like a wild-flower meadow, and when we get down further to look at the shoes, you will be able to see the edge of this dress in close-up, and it's intriguing !! The underlayer is a flower-printed silk, and the top layer is a sheer fabric embroidered with a shiny silk thread that looks quite thick, like satiny embroidery silk, or it could be tiny sequins on a continuous thread - it's very hard to tell - you'll see when we get down further !!

 

More of those appliquéd pansies, this time both on the under-layer, which changes the colour of them, and on the top layer of this evening-dress with matching sheer gloves...not too sure about those gloves - how I wish they had been just plain black, maybe solid instead of sheer, or perhaps net ...

 

The same applies with this dress too - the matching gloves look a bit overworked. They would have been better in plain black silk, I reckon...I like the dress though !!

 

A puffball dress, one of two in this collection and the one I liked and think might appear on a red carpet...I liked the red colour of the dress with all the beautiful flowers embroidered on it in three distinct sections...

 

Two beautiful full-length dresses and one matching jacket - lovely !!

 

I really liked this dress with its orange-edged flowers appliquéd all across the bust-line and the plain white flowers everywhere else...

 


SHOES
The Dior shoes were quite pretty - not too clumpy or stupidly high, and came in every colour to match every dress - some not quite as successful as others.
Firstly, here's the flower-strewn dress I mentioned above, with the interesting double layer design, consisting of flower-printed silk under a sheer top layer embellished with either silk embroidery thread or sequins all over...



As for the shoes themselves, for me, the peachy-pinks and the metallic pinks below worked just fine, along with the more neutral colours: cream, black, navy, and pale grey...even the pale lemon teamed with clear plastic above...

 

...whereas the bright metallics below - well, not so much !! They looked a tad gaudy...

 

STUFF I DIDN'T LIKE...
As with all collections coming out of the biggest houses in Paris, there are always some things I just didn't like much, and there were at least two real WTF moments in the course of this show...

This little evening top teamed with black cigarette pants simply didn't do it for me at all - the whole shape of that top looked awkward - too thin and pointy over the bust and far too heavy round the sensitive waist and tummy area. All those appliquéd pansies will just pile on the weight...



This bright yellow dress was fine actually, except for that weird split around the hip area - this looks like a short little mini-dress with a longer full length underskirt which is a separate entity - perhaps this is a dress with options !!



Here's another full length evening gown I simply didn't get at all - I didn't like the short sleeves, which look like a day dress to me - far too wide and with that cuff, they look like a summer dress from the 50s...
How I wish this had been strapless - just the plain cream bodice, or perhaps with a simple halter-neck design in the blossom-strewn beaded silk - I did like the back however...that was interesting !!

 

Here is the other puffball dress mentioned further up - this one looks just like a shower curtain to me, with the shiny plasticky looking fabric. Here, I have exactly the same problem that some of you had with some of the Versace dresses in my last but one post...
Also, the puffball shape is so exaggerated - it looks like it's been inflated !!

 

So, in case you were wondering - here are my two biggest WTF moments...

 
 
This looks like a shower or swimming cap from the 50s - seriously !! What was Stephen Jones thinking ? And what was Raf Simons thinking for agreeing to this awful design ?!!

As for the glittery-encrusted lipstick - this is just a huge no-no - are they having a laugh ?!!
Just as the Chanel models had massive amounts of dark eye-make-up and virtually no lip colour, here they are the reverse - massive amounts of lip emphasis with virtually no eye colour at all - I know which I prefer though...this lipstick just looks so uncomfortable - and daft !!

Next up will be perennial favourite Elie Saab, who you will all be ecstatic to know, has produced his usual cavalcade of beautiful red carpet gowns - and he wasn't the only one this season either !! I have three designers from the US with couture collections to look at as well, and they are all similar to Mr Saab in their red carpet vision.

So stay tuned...



Comments 
Sun, 27th Jan 2013 (UTC)
It looks like some of your coding messed up a bit :)

But wow, that yellow dress, what was going on there?!
Sun, 27th Jan 2013 (UTC)
Yes - I just went to edit it and found it was all OK - seems to be fine now !! Don't know what went wrong with that, but it was a glitch at the LJ end I think. You'll have to go back and read the rest of my dislikes...

That yellow dress will be worn on the red carpet - mark my words !! I can see several stars in that one, but I still don't like the weird split half way down the skirt !!
Sun, 27th Jan 2013 (UTC)
Yup it's working now :) Weird LJ haha :)

I kind of hope not because it's so... different haha, but we will wait and see :)
Sun, 27th Jan 2013 (UTC)
Yes, I'm with you on these designs...

And the lipstick, too!
Sun, 27th Jan 2013 (UTC)
On the second to last dress, you mentioned the back, but I don't see a picture... Did you include one?

Also, I liked the bejeweled lips. Granted, its not something to do in real life (even for award shows or anything), but for something as fanciful as this, I thought it was okay. The only other time I've seen them were on CD covers which I also thought was okay since these are the kinds of things that require artistic license.

I liked a little less than half of the collection however by the end of it I was sick and tired of flowers. Thank god its still winter and there are no real flowers to be seen otherwise I'd be really annoyed.

Also, I liked the first shoe with the green tip and nude sides, but I wonder what it looks like from the back. I can see a bit of green, I think...
Mon, 28th Jan 2013 (UTC)
Yes, sorry - it must have got lost somewhere - I've put it back in now !! I had some HTML code issues with this post at first, so it's possible that it might have got lost then...

I have to say that you're completely right about the bejewelled lipstick - it's not something we're likely to see on a red carpet, or anywhere else for that matter, but for the runway show itself - well, they can stage anything just for dramatic effect !! Same with the Chanel eye make-up that everyone hated - I thought it looked dramatic on the runway, but everyone else really didn't get it at all...
Mon, 28th Jan 2013 (UTC)
Some hits and some misses, but not too bad overall. I didn't like the odd dark hose over the shoes at all tho in the first few dresses. The first flowered dress is glorious! I would love to own that one. I agree the striped dress is wonderful too. Very different and fresh.
Mon, 28th Jan 2013 (UTC)
There were more in this collection on second viewing that I really liked, than the first Raf Simons Collection for Dior - he is taking some getting used to after the wild excesses of John Galliano's amazing imagination, I have to say...